Thursday, April 17, 2008

Will's Blog

Hello everyone,

This is Will.


I'll be writing about Africa, about life, and hopefully stories of dancing in mud puddles, climbing trees, running through fields of daisies and "contagious revolution that dances, laughs, and loves."

"But there is another movement stirring, a little revolution of sorts.  Many of us are refusing to allow distorted images of our faith to define us.  There are those of us who, rather than simply reject pop evangelicalism, want to spread another kind of Christianity, a faith that has as much to say about this world as it does about the next. New prophets are rising up who try to change the future, not just predict it.  There is a movement bubbling up that goes beyond cynicism and celebrates a new way of living, a generation who stops complaining about the church it sees and becomes the church it dreams of.  And this little revolution is irresistible.  It is a contagious revolution that dances, laughs, and loves."

Shane Claiborne in the Irresistible Revolution.

Grace and peace to you.

lovewill

Wednesday, April 2, 2008

The Long Overdue Update

hey everybody,

It's Will. This morning I'm writing to you from Sherman, Texas. This update is long overdue.

This Saturday I will have been home for one month. Jill and Bethany have been home a month as of today and yesterday.

I should apologize for my/(our) lack of blogs in the final days of our time in Africa. The last time we wrote was from Bujumbura, Burundi. While in Bujumbura, things began to get pretty tough for the three of us. Central Africa (Burundi and Congo) is one of the most poverty stricken places on the globe, and seeing that daily wore on us over time. Burundi is the third poorest country in the world. We spent two weeks in Bujumbura visiting refugee camps, repatriate camps, deaf/dumb schools, the beach (once or twice), war torn communities, and two of the poorest neighborhoods in Bujumbura (and therefore probably the world).

We saw things that blew our minds and tore up our hearts. Malnourished children was the norm. We saw people who were missing limbs, eyes, and any sense of hope. At this point, I still have not been able to even begin to process the things I saw in my last month in Africa. However, this morning I just wanted to record our last bit of travel and let everyone know that we are home safe.

After leaving Burundi, we traveled into Congo. We stayed with our friend Juma in a small hotel in Congo and were blown away by the hospitality of the church there. I truly felt that those people embodied the CHURCH- a community of Christ followers. While in Congo, we spoke to oprhans, women raped by remnants of the Interhamwe (genocidaires from Rwanda), and churches in the midst of extreme poverty. I thought that the slums in Nairobi were bad until I saw Bukavu, Congo, where 4 million people live in conditions worse than that of the Nairobi slums.

From Congo, we traveled to Kigali, Rwanda. As we drove into the country for the first time, I felt the darkness of the horror that befell that land 14 years ago during the genocide. We stayed with Dale, one of Bethany's friends from university.

After Rwanda came Uganda and a beautiful place called Lake Bunyonyi where we got some much needed rest. Some of my fondest memories of our time together happened at Lake Bunyonyi. We spent three days apart fasting, praying, and processing the last five months of our lives. From Bunyonyi we passed through Kampala and returned via first class seats on Kenya Airways to Nairobi. Three days later Jill and Bethany went home. I spent a final week back in Naivasha with the Hovingh's who are definitely one of the coolest families in the world.

And now we are back home safe. It has been a hard transition and I for one am by no means adjusted. However, we are trusting that God will continue to show us the way and strive daily to be a part of what he dreams for this world. The three of us are keeping in touch and I sure miss the girls.

AND THERE IS SOME GREAT NEWS!!!!!! BETHANY GOT ENGAGED LAST NIGHT... WHEEEEEE!!!! Go Steve...

So... I think that this hereby ends the blog for the Tripod in Africa, mostly because we're not in Africa anymore. However, I find solace in writing and want to do a better job of remembering and writing about the things we saw and did. Therefore, I'm going to be opening a new blog where I'll combine stories and pictures to try and process all of this and dream of a better world. If you're interested, check out that blog for stories of Burundi, Congo, Rwanda, and Uganda.

Grace and Peace...

Will

Saturday, February 9, 2008

Mzungu! Give Me!

Today we tried to go DR Congo, but it didn’t quite work. We couldn’t get a bus, and if we went the long way we would have to pay for a visa twice (typical). While we were waiting to find out if we could get a bus , this Burundian guy was hitting on Jill (typical) but I’d say she made the best of the situation. Long story short, she traded our e-mail addresses to him for his Quiksilver hat !

Also, we saw a woman wearing a shirt that said “ I SURVIVED THE ICE STORM!”
There are so many funny t-shirts here!

The day after visiting the deaf and dumb school, we went to visit two communities that had been affected by the war. Rubirizi was occupied by the rebels in 2004-2005 and consequently all the residents had to flee to various countries. People are being repatriated now, but the going is tough. They have no money to buy seeds to grow food. The soil has been destroyed by the grenades and bombs. There are many widows whose husbands were killed in the war, and who have no steady source of income. There isn’t adequate water supply. Many of the houses have no roofs. The health in the area is very poor, and the clinic doesn’t have electricity or water. And, as I was surprised to find out, there is no organization (NGO or other) working to alleviate the poverty of these people.

We talked with the head of the community, and with an association of widows and heard their stories. Jill explained that our purpose for visiting was to experience Africa, meet the people, and go home and tell their stories, in an effort to help bridge the gap between the rich and the poor. Although this may have seemed like a good enough reason to visit, it paled in comparison to the overwhelming need we encountered there. I felt shamed and truly sorry we had nothing more to offer. Then we prayed with them, and for them, and left.

The second community we visited, Muramvya , had also been occupied in 2005, but the residents were not allowed to leave, and so it was essentially turned into a ghetto. At some point someone intervened because it was a violation of human rights, and now they are in about the same situation as Rubirizi. We met a man there who was living with his 95 year old mother and his 10 children. He worked on a farm nearby and made hardly any money. We took him inside his house, and gave him some money to get him through the week, and after Will handed the money to him, he took it and raised his thin hands up to heaven and said “Thank-you…” over and over again, tears spilling down his cheeks. The gratitude he showed was overwhelming, and beautiful. The passage when Jesus says “ Blessed are the poor for theirs is the Kingdom of heaven” (Mt 5:3) took on new and mystical meaning. We prayed for his family before we left, and that moment for me was a moment of divine communion, a glimpse into the Kingdom of Heaven.

Yesterday we went to see the Twa Pigmy people who live not too far from Bujumbura. They were among the poorest people we’ve visited yet. There were a few government houses, but most of the families lived in mud huts. They wore dirty, ripped clothes, and most had no shoes. I doubt they had adequate water supply, or access to medical care. We brought a box of soap and some salt to distribute among the people. Each home we visited we gave six bars of soap and a bag of salt, but there was so much more that they needed. People were constantly asking us for something, using broken English, or by holding their hands out.

One of the hardest things for me to deal with here is that I am looked at as a dollar sign. People see us and will come up and say “ Mzungu, give me!” It is dehumanizing, in a sense, to be regarded as nothing more than a dollar sign. But it is nothing compared to the dehumanizing poverty they live in day after day. Nothing compared to the dehumanizing way the West turns a blind eye to their need, and nothing compared to the dehumanizing complacency that plagues the West.

I’m sorry if this blog was a little bit choppy to read, but our week has been full of ups and downs, and I wanted to include both the “ups” and the “downs” in this. Tomorrow we are going to spend two nights in the DR Congo, and then we will head to Rwanda from there, so please be in prayer about that. Take care, smile at those you love, be careful, be reckless, cry, laugh, be kind to old people and remember you are a beautiful person.

Love and peace,

Bethany

Friday, February 1, 2008

This is what we did today and it made us feel like [insert appropriate emotion here].

“What we are doing may seem insignificant, but it is most important that we do it.” -Gandhi
Today I started re-reading the book that started it all for me: The Irresistible Revolution by Shane Claiborne. Today, I saw a boy beaten in the market after he sold me some bread. Today we visited a school for deaf and dumb children. Today we gave a new set of clothes to a deaf and dumb boy, along with some soap and a toothbrush. Today we visited a widow who lost her son in the war and had both legs amputated last year.

This morning, I went to the market down the street with our pastor friend Jean-Baptiste to buy some clothes to take to a little boy named Joseph at the deaf and dumb school. Deep in the winding alleys of the market, a street boy (some mental retardation due to substance abuse was evident) was selling bread. As I was talking to the boy in Swahili about prices for the bags of fresh-made bread, a crowd gathered. There aren’t many white people in Burundi. Like none. As I finished buying the bread from the boy, I began to feel a bit claustrophobic in the huge crowd. I began to push my way outwards to catch up with Jean-Baptiste when I heard shouting and yelling behind me. I turned to see that same boy in the midst of a group of older boys who were beating and slapping him.

I have no idea what he did to them and why they were hitting him. However, as they beat him, they were laughing with one another so I didn’t really need an explanation. I don’t think I handled it very well. I pushed back to the middle and got really angry at them. After a few seconds, they decided it was in their best interests to leave him alone probably because shop walls aren’t that comfortable. Man, I was angry.

Street boys are called trash in Africa. They aren’t usually considered people. And so they get picked on and abused constantly. I don’t think I handle it very well.

After we finished in the market, we picked up the girls and headed up towards the foothills to the school for deaf and dumb children. When we arrived at the school, we got out of the taxi and were greeted with a different sort of reception. Normally, whenever we go somewhere, we are greeted with cries of mzungu mzungu (white person). But today, we were greeted with silence. The kids surrounded us and wildly made hand motions. Some of them are able to squeak and some are even able to laugh. The silence was deafening.

While at the school, we played lots of games of hopscotch, the always-a-success “balance game”, basketball, and acrobatics. I drew America in the dirt and drew Africa across my dirt rendition of an ocean and played like I was an airplane flying from Texas to Burundi. We gave hugs and smiles and learned a bit of sign language.

We were all standing around playing hopscotch and the balance game when some kid brings out a basketball. And off we went to their old court. So then we did alley-oops, pick-and-roll class, and played some two-on-two. And I didn’t say anything the whole time. But we laughed a ton. And we played hard. And they were the most honest basketball players I’ve ever played with.

As I sit here trying to think about how I would describe the experiences today, the only word that comes to my mind is beautiful. And that’s infinitely inadequate. Beautiful faces. Beautiful people. These are the kids that no one really cares about. We turn away from them because we think that they can’t offer us anything because they can’t hear us or speak to us. Therefore, they are worthless to society. What a lie! Or maybe we just look at them and think how sad it is and then go back to our lives.

In reality, if we would only take the time to notice, maybe we would see that children like these have more to offer society than words can express. Maybe we would learn a little bit about life and love from children such as these. Jesus talked a lot about the little children and I think maybe I saw a little bit of the why today. What joy! What peace! What hope! What love!

Jesus said, “Whatever you did for the least of these, you did for me.” Maybe if we would take more time to look into the eyes of the “least of these,” we would see God. I think that I would learn more about the things that God wants us to know about himself and our place in the world with those kids than I would ever learn in some university somewhere. And it would be a lot cheaper.

I hope we can go back soon.

After the school for the deaf and dumb, we went to visit a friend of Juma and Jean-Baptiste (our pastor friends; we are staying with Jean). Mary Louise. Juma described her as a woman of God. She used to be a teacher and worship leader around East Africa until she lost her legs. They were amputated last year due to complications from diabetes. She is a widow and her son was killed in the civil war in 1995. She lives very frugally in the material sense but I think she is one of the richest people in the world. You walk into her presence and feel encouraged by the shine that emanates from her person. She has hardly anything, but she gave each of us a soda. We sat and talked to her and answered questions and as we were leaving, she offered a beautiful word of advice to us. We prayed for her and left her with a small gift of love.

Days like today and yesterday require me to reexamine my thoughts on God and the world and my place in it. Mostly I just wanted to relate the beauty in people I saw today. When we go to these places of destitution and extreme poverty, it seems that I feel more connected to God. I’m sorry I can’t really explain it, but sometimes I feel like I’m looking into Jesus’ eyes as I stare into the eyes of people who have nothing but hope and joy. And I know that because it’s not right for people to live like this, I must come back someday.

Today, I’d encourage you to let God tap you into the big picture. Get involved. Do something radical. Speak out against an injustice you see. Head down to the local homeless shelter. Take lunch to a homeless man and spend the afternoon talking. Be Jesus to someone and look for him in their eyes. Ok, I’m out for tonight.

Peace be with you.

willyoulove

May we continue to feed each other hope as we dance God’s revolution together. -Shane Claiborne

Thursday, January 31, 2008

This will be the first installment of a series called “ This is what we did today and it made us feel like [insert appropriate emotion]”

Today we went to two different places, both of them poverty-stricken and intensely affected by the civil-war that has torn Burundi apart for decades, and is still not over.
The first area we went to was a community about 10 km from Bujumbura that used to be thriving with many families and houses, but early in the 2000’s one of the rebel groups took over the area, made it into one of their stronghold’s, destroyed all the houses and forced everyone to flee. There were remnants of houses everywhere we looked, and it was eerie knowing that we were walking on land where people had been killed for no reason other than their race. We talked with a cousin of Jean-Baptiste’s who spoke French, and he told us of how the community was thriving before the battle there, but afterwards people had lost friends, children and family members. It broke my heart listening to him.

The second place we visited was a repatriation camp funded by the government of Burundi, where refugees came to live if they had no family and no land to go back to. A lot of the people there had been displaced in the 1968 or 1972 conflicts, or were born in refugee camps in Congo, Rwanda and Tanzania. There was so much poverty and suffering present in that place, it is hard to describe.

After seeing the things we saw, I was overwhelmed by how much we have… we have so many material objects, but more importantly we have so much opportunity. I won the birth lottery being born in North America where we have so much, and much of what we have has been gotten at the expense of others. As a group we decided that we need to be giving more freely. We have had our moments of worrying about money, about how we may or may not have enough to see us through the rest of this trip, but today was a reminder that everything we have has been given to us, and therefore we must give freely. I am coming to a point where I don’t want to have money leftover when I return home, because I return home to an opportunity, and opportunity to work and make money. But the people here are trapped in a cycle of poverty. So we will choose to give and trust that God will provide for us what we really need to keep going.

Another thing I was reminded of was a quotation I read in a Geez magazine not too long ago. It challenges me to re-examine my motivations for being here, and I hope it will challenge you to re-examine you motivations in reading our blog, and looking at the pictures of the poverty we post on the internet.

“Anti-racist theorist Sherene Razack observes that the white, privileged and respectable identity builds itself by being able to enter places of degeneracy and come out unscathed, willing and ready to tell the tale” Razack goes on to describe the “telling of the tale” as “consumption of media images and stories”

Are we here to simply bring images back home for people to consume and say “Oh, that is so sad !” and then go on with our “white, privileged and respectable” lives ? I pray that these experiences with extreme poverty would not become another way we reinforce our identity as the “privileged” but instead would help destroy that distinction. I pray that instead of coming out “unscathed” we would be profoundly changed, and moved to action. My prayer is the same for you.

Love,

Bethany

Ps: That quotation can be found in the Fall 2007 issue of Geez magazine, in an article entitled “In the wake of Katrina, what lesson, inspiration or insight can we take from New Orleans ?” by Anna Bowen.

Wednesday, January 30, 2008

It's Night in Bujumbura

It is night in Bujumbura. The normal night sounds of the capital city of Burundi are muffled, yes, almost non-existent tonight, leaving me alone with my thoughts. I write from a small, humid room on the top floor of a residence building, listening to the drips of the rain outside the lone window. I sit on a thin mattress on the floor, the same mattress where I will soon lay my head. Next to me sleeps a young man from Congo, here visiting his sister-in-law. Three feet away, another young man tosses fitfully at the sound of thunder… a university student at the University of Burundi. He is studying law and desires peace for this country torn by ten long years of civil war caused by the same tribal disputes that sparked the Rwandan genocide of 1994.

Sometimes I feel as if I am in a dream. Three feet of space separate me from this young man who has lost both his mother and father to this war and yet it feels like I am oceans away from that pain that I sometimes see in his eyes. O the contrast that I feel sometimes…Here I sit with Death Cab for Cutie in my ear and my two-thousand dollar laptop and my petty worries about the scratch on my keyboard, the smudge on my screen, my skinny arms, my pounding headache, the girl in my mind, and the humid air; but, four walls separate me from one of the poorest capital cities on earth, where the majority of people live on less than one dollar a day. It is hard to reconcile the thoughts and feelings that my own blatant humanity produces in light of all that surrounds me. Oftentimes, I worry about going home, back to tv, cinemas, four cars for a family of five, Texas steaks, and apathy, materialism, and “democracy.”

I suppose that tonight I write because these thoughts and emotions need release in some way. I suppose that I am asking for prayer for our little community, our little threesome, as we count down the remaining thirty-four days that we have left together in Africa before Jill and Bethany go home. I doubt that I will find a resolution or understanding in my writing tonight, but maybe the process will bring a sort of catharsis.

Today, as we pondered our remaining five weeks together, our money situation, and the situation in Kenya that affects our return flights out of Nairobi, I felt the oppressive weight of discouragement settle upon my shoulders. Lately, I have struggled so much with expectations…for myself, for the three of us, and for our world. I struggle with the brokenness and disconnectedness I feel between Jill, Bethany, and I…brokenness made all the more evident by the thought of such short time left, by the overwhelming nature of what we must process and deal with daily, and by our broken humanity that falls so short sometimes. I struggle with who I have been and wonder sometimes at who I am becoming. I struggle with the feelings of control and security I must give to God in regards to finances. I struggle with my response to what I see; sometimes I find myself turning the switch to “off” so as not to have to deal with the poverty and unrest around me. And I become so disgusted with my petty wants, desires, and expectations in light of the brutal reality beyond these four walls.

Today, in downtown Bujumbura, I stepped over a young baby on the side of the road with no arms and legs. Whether her condition was the result of the war or a birth defect, I will never know. Insulated by the safety of a taxi, I drove past a group of children with distended bellies made grotesque from malnutrition. I drove past an open, reeking landfill, on the top of which young children rummaged around looking for even a morsel of something with caloric value. Outside my window, I can gaze upon a disgusting slum, reeking of sweat, grime, and waste where people try to catch a few hours of sleep before another day begins. People not unlike me…systems and organs wrapped up in flesh and bound by the laws of gravity, space, and time. People just like me…feeling pain, despair, and hopelessness.

It is maddening sometimes to be here at the gaping mouth of all this need with so little to offer. Though I have the entire world in the eyes of these people, I have no money to give, no skill set to offer, and no time to effect lasting change. And that, today, made me discouraged. As the girls and I were talking today, the unspoken was finally spoken; that is, “We don’t have much time left. We are at the point when we will really not be helping or loving these people. We have no money, no skills, and little time.” To that, I asked, “Ok, then why are we here?”

Bethany responded, “To be changed.” And I sat and thought about that the rest of the day. “Africa, I came to change you, but instead you’re changing me.” I came here with so much idealism, so much pride that I was doing something to “change the world.” Doing something to help people and offer hope to the hopeless and love to the loveless as I so often like to think. But, in reality, these hopeless and these loveless are offering so much to this young, hopeless and loveless, young boy.
I know God is using this time to change me and break me of my pride. In the gospels I see Christ using people that were passed over by everyone else around them. Sometimes I think that the lesser we become, the more God can and will use us. I used to say that in my comfortable and prideful bubble back home but never lived it. In an email from Jill’s friend Alex, he wrote,

“And it really made me realize that you don’t have to be great to change the world for Christ. Jesus picked the C plus average fishermen from Bethsaida over the well-schooled Hellenistic Jews from Jerusalem. So like, even though, I'm just Alex Manion, a B minus student from wimpy Grand Rapids, Michigan, I can make big change. And that pumps me up like none other man.”

Yes, Alex, you get ten dollars because I quoted you/told a story about you. ;-)

I know God has used the three of us to bring hope to people and I pray that he will use us when go home to lovingly speak honest words like the prophets did against the apathy and comfort of the modern church. I know he is continually working in us and around us daily to do big things in our lives and bring about huge change in us that he might use us as we give up more of ourselves and he makes more room for himself. But man, sometimes the sheer humanity that I see in myself and this Africa overwhelms me.

One of the reasons I decided to write tonight was the fact that I just read a short story that my friend Andrew wrote that is, in reality, about the two of us. The story is about a young, wealthy Englishman who goes to Ireland during the Potato Famine of 1848 and is forever changed. The story hit so close to home that I got a bit nauseous as I was convicted about my attitude and subtle complacency of late. I will quote a telling portion of the story to close that will offer some insight as to how I am being changed, how we need prayer, and the reality of our current situation.

However, before I do, I want to ask for prayer. Please continue to pray for this little group of three teenagers from the West which has such a desire to see the kingdom of heaven here on this earth. Please pray for our hearts, that we will remain open to being changed during this last month we have together. Please pray for our financial situation, that God might provide that we might give to those who have so much less than we do. Please pray for our safety. Please pray that we might have wisdom as we try to decide how to get the girls home in a month…their flights are out of Nairobi and as BBC so willingly relates, Kenya is a hotbed of ethnic violence right now. Please pray for Kenya-that peace would come and that people would be healed. For Burundi- that peace would remain and the economy strengthened. Pray for the girl on the street today with no arms and no legs. For the boy in Kigoma with burn scars on his face and stubs for hands. For the elderly beggar in Mwende with despair in his eyes. For me and my heart. For the three of us and our love—both to one another and to the people around us. That brokenness would be healed from Christ’s love. And finally, that we would see the Kingdom come and that all of us could be witness to God’s beautiful plan to save the world coming to pass. I love you all. Here is the portion from Andrew’s story; there are two portions that I want ya’ll to have, maybe to understand a bit of where I am and a bit of how to pray for us.

John broke the silence. "What I was goin' to say a few minutes ago is, do you think that you could do something about this, back in England? I know it's silly, but you're rich, and surely you could somehow get into the government's processes or somethin', do somethin' about the way they treat us and the way they see us... O'Brien says that to the English, we're just so many animals, grubbin' about in the dirt and prayin' to the Virgin Mary and makin' babies like a lot of half-savages or some kind of thing like that. You know we aren't all that, we're human, aren't we? So do you think you could? I know it's a big thing to ask..."
Thomas looked up at the cloudless blue sky and replied, "It's not too much to ask, not at all. It's all I would ever want to do, I'm thinking. I saw that look in your eyes when we passed that girl, and I can't let myself do that, I can't ever just build up a wall around myself and cut myself off from feeling for my fellow humans. I'm not sure exactly what I'll do yet, but when I get back to England I know that I won't be able to live the same life I have for all my eighteen years up until now."

Back in London, Thomas stood in front of the Palace of Westminster, trying desperately to reconcile all that he had seen and heard and smelled in Ireland with all that he had known in the eighteen years of his life before. His thoughts flew wildly from John's little sister to his older sister to the wealthy captain of the ship he had ridden in to his own father sitting in Parliament to the watery soup John's mother worked on to a big oaken table covered in food at his parents' house. He could not understand why the one seemed like a dream in the face of the other, and the other seemed like a dream in the face of the one. He closed his eyes and remembered Ireland; the slimy black potato that John's little sister squatted down to pull out of the ground and timidly touched to her mouth, the putrid black slime touching her lips as her face screwed up in revulsion, and the sound of her retching behind the hut a few minutes after she had tried to eat it. Then his thoughts drifted to Christmas dinner at his own house; his family bowing their heads as his father intoned the prayer over the food, his sister Mary laughing at a joke as she spooned gravy onto her plate, the Christmas tree behind them festooned with candles and popcorn. He simply could not deal with the contrast, the massive difference that a few hundred miles of geography made in people's conditions. In the last week, the sheer inanity of it all had served to transform all his youthful energy into a fire that burned in his chest, spitting out sparks at every thought he had and scorching the halls of his parents' house as he restlessly paced them.



lovewill

P.S. I just also want to say that I am sorry for the lack of blogging of late. And for the general lack of factual information about life in East Africa. It is so hard sometimes to write it all down and I find myself writing during the rough times rather than the good times when I’m thinking about development, beauty of scenery, the way of life, culture, and etc. I have been hoping to go back through my journal and blog more about those things when I am home. Until, then my prayer is that you might be privy to this journey with us…that you might be changed in your own way along with us…and that all of us might be encouraged and inspired about the hope we do have…(first chapter of 1 Peter.)

Monday, January 28, 2008

Sweet bus ride...

Conveniently……

Hello world. Jill and Bethany here bringing you the latest update! Beware, it is long, but entertaining.

So here we are, trying to make our way across Tanzania before our visas run out… but the going is very, very sloooow. Pole-POLE! A few days ago, we had a truly African bus ride experience. Where to begin…

Since our original plan of taking the train from Dodoma to Kigoma was foiled (tickets were all sold out until Feb. 9—waaay past our visa expiry date), we found ourselves stranded in Dodoma with only one possible way of getting to Kigoma. Taking ANOTHER bus up to Tabora and trying to catch the train from there. It seemed like a good plan. We were told by various people that the bus ride would be anywhere from 6-10 hours.

We arrived at the bus depot at 11:00 AM expecting the bus to pull in at around 11:30, but ended up standing in the blistering heat until 12:30 when the bus actually arrived. We quickly placed our luggage with the pile of bags to be loaded and climbed on the bus to discover that it had been badly overbooked. Will fought to find the seats on our tickets, conveniently at the very back of the bus, and Erik (our new Swedish friend), Bethany, and I were standing as the bus pulled away, conveniently positioned again to look out the window and discover that all of the bags had been loaded… except ours. We watched them sitting in the dirt while we tried to explain the situation to our fellow bus mates (none of which spoke English very well) and they responded with, “Oh, it’s okay. It’s okay!” Trusting their words of wisdom, we continued on our way to stop for a “break” about 10 minutes later. At which point our bags pulled up in a taxi. With no room left underneath the bus, our bags ended up strapped to the top, always a safe place to be.

We found our seats once again—Bethany sandwiched between two Tanzanians in front of Erik, Will, and I in the back. It’s funny traveling with Will because his legs are so long that they never seem to fit anywhere, especially on buses. Conveniently again, THIS particular bus was falling apart and the seats in front of us were too close to our seats for Will to sit normally. Throw Erik’s long legs into the equation and we have an even bigger problem. So we finally pull away, on our way to Tabora, and about 20 minutes down the road the bus comes to a halt. Police Check! You will remember from the beginning that the bus was badly over-packed and there were about seven people standing in the aisle. Two policeman walk on the bus and the aisle-standers duck and a lot of Swahili is spoken. Then after another 20 minutes… the bus turns around. Always a good sign. We were informed by the man next to us, the only one who could speak English on the whole bus, that, “We are going to the police station so they can charge us. And then we will drop some people off. And THEN we will go to Tabora. No problem!” So we pass the station where we initially loaded, now gaining negative mileage towards our destination. After a quick 20 minute stop at the police station, we finally continued on our way (about 2 hours later, with… the same amount of people in the bus). A little further down the road we get pulled over for a police check AGAIN and a woman dressed in a sailor outfit climbs on the bus and proceeds to yell at all the bus occupants for about 10 minutes straight. In Swahili. We have no idea what she said, but luckily we didn’t have to make another detour back to the police station.

We continued on our way and promptly the roads began to… deteriorate. As we hit dirt roads we see simultaneously, in the very near distance, a completely gray horizon of death, and we remember that all of our backpacks… are on top of the bus. The roads became steadily worse for the next 4 hours as it continued to rain and we continued to go through pothole after mud puddle after pothole. We were convinced that at ANY second we were going to get stuck in the absolute middle of nowhere. As the roads are steadily deteriorating, the seats are steadily inching backwards with each bump we hit forcing Will into the fetal position. At this point Jill has to go to the bathroom, which is a permanent condition which she lives with, and her hopes begin to rise as we pull into the first small town we’ve seen in hours. But, being behind schedule, the bus pulls straight on through the town, drives for another 10 minutes, and then stops in the bush. Bathroom break !!! About a minute after Jill gets off the bus ( which takes a while because we are at the back) the driver begins revving the engine and honking for everyone to get back on. She is one of the last people back on the bus and we can hear people complaining about “the mzungu” who is holding the bus up.

As the bus starts moving again, we decide it is time to try and create a little more leg room. Erik stands up in aisle, but is too tall, and now his head is hitting the roof every time we hit a bump, which is at least every 3.4 seconds. The locals behind are hysterical at this point, bursting out into laughter every time Erik’s head hits the ceiling. So Will gives it a shot. Same result. The only other option is Jill, who is conveniently shorter than the guys. She ends up standing in the aisle for two hours, and only sits back back down for a third police check!

It is at this point that we realize that this bus ride is going to be a lot longer than 6-10 hours. The bus starts moving again, and there is approximately six inches of leg room left, quickly disappearing. However, things start to look up as we hit a patch of smooth roads. We pull up to another town (around 11:00 pm) and stop outside a restaurant. Of course, I (Jill) have to go to the bathroom again, so I get off the bus and ask “ Choo iko wapi ?” and end up in this sleazy bar, with a bunch of half drunk Tanzanians yelling “Mzungu” as I walk into the bathroom, which didn’t lock. I was caught between two evils : not peeing at all, or peeing in the bathroom of a sleazy bar with drunk Tanzanians yelling “Mzungu!” outside the door. I chose to pee.

We get back on the bus and I (Bethany) ask the guy next to me, the only one on the bus who spoke English “ How far is Tabora ?” and he says “ About three hours, no problem”
What ?! Another three hours ?! It was another horrible road.

Long story short ( too late, I know) we pulled into Tabora at 2:45 AM groggy-eyed, with bruised knees from lack of knee room, hot and sweaty and wanting only to shower before going to bed. We found a hotel, and the last twist of irony is that the showers didn’t work! In fact, no water whatsoever trickled out of the tap. I don’t think that day could have gotten too much worse.

The next day we rode a train for 14 hours, overnight, 3rd class. To understand what that was like, take the above and multiply by 10. A few highlights were : 170 people in a car with 70 seats, Jill getting lactated on from across the aisle, and a permanent smell of body odour in the car.

Ask us some other time about our fantastic travel experience getting to Bujumbura where Jill learned to say for the first time, in Swedish, “My father is a Viking”

Peace and Love everyone, peace and love


Bethany and Jill ( different name same brain) AKA W’all